We are driving along the coast of Maine, on highway 1. After crossing the York River, we turn on 1A to drive down Long Sands Beach, on Long Beach Avenue, at a snails pace in the traffic. The sun is warm, the light sparkles on the ocean and everything at this moment personifies my visualization of summering in New England. I want to rent one of the cottages, spend a summer falling asleep to the sound of waves, eating lobster chowder for dinner and walking on the beach. We are in “The Yorks,” comprised of the neighborhoods of Old York, York Harbor, York Beach and Cape Neddick. Cape Neddick is at the northeast end of Long Sands Beach, and on a tiny, rocky island off the tip of Cape Neddick is Nubble Light, also known as Cape Neddick Lighthouse. Nubble Light is on an island! A tiny cable car allows travel from the mainland to the island, but it’s only for the use of the lighthouse keeper. You have to “visit” the lighthouse, keeper’s house and outbuildings from afar, on Sohier Park, where we stand gazing.
We walk past Fox’s but there is a line and I’m craving ice cream made with Maine blueberries, so we drive off, eastward uphill and almost drive past Brown’s Ice Cream. It’s closed, the first ice cream stand I’ve seen in a long time. (The chains took over Northern California, and places like Brown’s are few and far in between, sadly). It may have been off Beach Street where we parked, seeing people wading in the ocean, and walked to the beach. Greg walked up the beach while I waded out as far as I could. I’d never been in the Atlantic and this first, short experience was memorable. The sand was as soft as talcum; the water felt warm but cool simultaneously – like a glass of tap water at room temp, with an ice cube. Refreshing. I waded out, careful to not allow the miniature waves to soak my rolled up jeans.
Continuing up 1, called Post Road, Main St, Old Post Road, York Street and Portland Road; and admiring the houses alongside, near the ocean, we arrived in Wells, Maine to pay a souvenir call on the Lighthouse Depot at 2178 Post Road, a gold mine for lighthouse enthusiasts. I was very curious as to what Greg would purchase here, since he only has about 157 lighthouse artifacts and souvenirs in his home. I, on the other hand, have a head stuffed full of lighthouse facts and wanted a lighthouse reference book so I could clear off that shelf in my long-term memory. Although I found one, it was the size of a telephone book and I didn’t want to carry it.
Next door, at 2152 Post Road (aka Hwy 1 which annoys Pepsipal - "Why does the road keep changing its name????") is Harding Rare Books, housed in a 14-room building resembling a red barn/airplane hangar. An employee told me the building had been added on, as needed, without any real concern for exterior beauty or interior planning. It's a maze, but a delightful, amazing maze. Need I say it was full of books? I was most impressed by the inventory, by the employees’ extensive knowledge of the over 100,000 used, out-of-print and rare books in all categories, and by their abilities to give directions. Half-hourly search and rescue missions are carried out, there are survival supplies in every room (water and hardtack, yaar!!) From their website, the inventory has particular strength in Americana, maritime, New England town histories, genealogy, art and antiques as well as a wide selection of prints and maps from the 16th century through the 19th. I found classic cookbooks as well as vegan titles and one of the Duguid/Alford travel cookbooks I've lusted after. Once again, I didn't want to carry it around with me on vacation so I passed. Due to the exotic building, competent employees, Harvard library level of inventory, I can unequivocally state that Harding’s is the best used book store I’ve ever visited. Both thumbs up!
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